Since I didn't have a cabin I decided to sleep under the stars. It was very pleasant to see the sky and hear the waves of the Adriatic sea below. (2004-08-06 22:00 - Bergie)

The ferry arrived at 7am to Ancona, and the Italian customs waved me through, letting my bike be the first vehicle to depart. By 9am I was already eating breakfast in Riccione. (2004-08-07 09:10 - Bergie)

The trip went very quickly on the Autostrada, the black horse of Hinckley eating road like nothing. Urbino, Rimini, Bologna, Milano, ...

The road tolls in Italy totaled to about 20 EUR. It was funny to notice that most Italian bikers were showing me the thumbs up sign for having come from such a far away land as Finland. If only they would know. :-) (2004-08-07 12:35 - Bergie)

There were no border formalities when entering Switzerland, but I had to buy their road tax, or Autobahn Vignette for 30 EUR. When the Alps started the road was running mostly either on a bridge or in a tunnel. Snowcapped mountains and picturesque villages passed on left and right.

The traffic stopped completely when nearing the St. Gotthard's tunnel. I had to lane split a dozen kilometers. At the full gas station I heard cars had spent hours getting there. (2004-08-07 14:45 - Bergie)

The rest of the trip to Zürich was uneventful. I'm now sitting in Michi's place and discussing the upcoming OSCOM conference. (2004-08-07 18:45 - Bergie)

We had a picnic in Michi's family garden on the hill and discussed Open Source business. Now it is time to ride to Germany. I'm trying to get home on tomorrow's Superfast from Rostock but their ticket sales line doesn't work on weekends. (2004-08-08 16:33 - Bergie)

I left Zürich finally around 6pm. The road to German border in Schaffhausen was a bit blocked, but after that the highway flowed quite freely.

Actually, the autobahn was so fast that around Würzburg I made the decision to ride to Stockholm instead, and catch a Silja ferry to Helsinki from there.

I rode through Germany and Denmark by night, mostly powered by energy drinks. I passed Hamburg at 1:30am. In Denmark the road was getting to me and I stopped to take one hour's nap on the roadside.

After the long, boring ride through southern Sweden I arrived to Stockholm ferry terminal at 2pm. Odometer at the end of the trip was 67248km, making the trip 11164km long.

On the ferry we had a steak dinner and some whiskey with a Harley rider coming from the HoG meeting in Lillehammer.

Plovdiv. Checked into Hotel Elite in the old town and managed to talk a 60% discount. Parking is an issue, though. (2004-08-02 17:41 - Bergie)

Plovdiv has a quite charming old town. After walking a bit the first cold beer of the day tastes very good. Dining in restaurant Kambanata. (2004-08-02 18:36 - Bergie)

Another beer in the old Roman theatre, watching the sun set over Plovdiv and the hills of south Bulgaria. (2004-08-02 19:46 - Bergie)

Found a stoyanka (or, in Bulgarian, maritsa). Now my bike sleeps under the bridge. A quick cafe visit and I'll turn in to prepare for tomorrow. (2004-08-02 21:13 - Bergie)

Juice break in Kostenec. Headed west over the hills to Macedonia. (2004-08-03 10:48 - Bergie)

Blagoevgrad, filling up before the border. Bulgarian road signs are bad for my 1:4,500,000 map. Now I've been on the road for exactly one month. (2004-08-03 12:44 - Bergie)

I'm now in the Republic of Macedonia without any hassles. Beautiful mountain roads. (2004-08-03 13:30 - Bergie)

Veles. Stopped to withdraw enough Macedonian dinars to buy something to drink. Road has been in very good condition but it is hot to ride. (2004-08-03 15:14 - Bergie)

Skopje. It is good that I got some cash as this has been a toll road, setting me back with 100 dinars. (2004-08-03 16:00 - Bergie)

The UNMIK border was easy and manned by Indian peacekeepers. Only downside was having to buy 15 day insurance for 30 eur. Euro is the currency here. (2004-08-03 17:14 - Bergie)

Arrived to Pristina. Waiting for Timo near the Grand Hotel. Traffic culture is surprisingly good, with UN cops and KFOR vehicles everywhere. (2004-08-03 17:52 - Bergie)

We're having a tex-mex lunch over Kosovar beer with Ridvan and discussing the local politics. (2004-08-04 16:46 - Bergie)

Sightseeing tour of Pristina and its bazaars with Ridvan ended at the statue of Skenderbeg, Albania's 15th century national hero. (2004-08-04 19:06 - Bergie)

Dinner stretched into a long one as Timo shares tales of central Asian adventures and we discuss different customs and working cultures. (2004-08-04 23:16 - Bergie)

Withdrew some money, oiled the chain and started engines. It's time to leave Pristina and start the business trip to Zürich. Holiday is now over (2004-08-05 10:48 - Bergie)

Lunch break in Peja. Coming from the lowlands of Kosovo the Montenegroan mountains suddenly tower before me. (2004-08-05 12:10 - Bergie)

The border crossing to Crna Gora was very easy, with a good twisty mountain road and amazing scenery. Lots of Swiss NGO vehicles. (2004-08-05 13:38 - Bergie)

Rosaje. First impression of Montenegro: poorer Switzerland with minarets. Very beautiful. (2004-08-05 14:02 - Bergie)

The Peja - Podgorica road has been biker's wet dream; mountain passes, canyons, constant curves, good tarmac and very few police. (2004-08-05 16:46 - Bergie)

Viewpoint over the Kotor bay on Cetinje road. This has been the most scenic ride ever. Discussion in my limited Serbian with the drinks seller, and he shared his smoked ham and cottage cheese. (2004-08-05 18:20 - Bergie)

Kotor. I'm standing on the Adriatic shore with palm trees and an old castle around me. Odometer says 64365km. (2004-08-05 18:52 - Bergie)

Long queue on the Croatian border. The Montenegroan border guards were very suspicious because I had entered through Kosovo. (2004-08-05 20:02 - Bergie)

Arrived to Dubrovnik when the last rays of a setting sun were shining on the walls of the old city. (2004-08-05 20:56 - Bergie)

It is the height of tourist season in Dalmatia, and all hotels are full. Managed to get a room in private apartment overlooking the old harbour. (2004-08-05 21:40 - Bergie)

Sitting at beer under palm leaves on Dubrovnik's city walls. The old city is attractive but filled with tourists and christmas lights. (2004-08-05 22:22 - Bergie)

The day has been long and it is time to rest. Outside hundreds of big crickets clinging to the ancient walls hold their own concert. (2004-08-06 00:26 - Bergie)

Grey morning in Dalmatia with forecasted rains. Last night I had territorial fights with big locusts over who would inhabit the bed. (2004-08-06 10:48 - Bergie)

Komin. There had been a car crash on a bridge, forming 5km queues both ways. Surprisingly few riders lane split. (2004-08-06 13:56 - Bergie)

Split. Last 200km took nearly five hours. Really slow going! Car queues simply didn't move for over hundred kilometers so I had to ride between the lanes. It is the tourist season, and there are at least five times more cars than the road can take. With car this trip would've probably taken over one day. (2004-08-06 16:24 - Bergie)

Since the road has been very slow I'll take a night ferry from here to Ancona, Italy and ride from there to Zurich tomorrow. The Blue Line ferry should take about 8 hours. And It'll even pass the island of Vis.

After I had bought the ferry tickets I heard that from here to Zagreb would be highway. But maybe the ferry option is still better, as it enables me to rest the night and spend some time here in Split.

I ate a dinner of pljeskavica and green peas in a restaurant familiar from last September's trip. The place is in the old Roman Riva palace, with a nice view of the Split harbour. A guy from the Port Authority promised to watch my bike and stuff while I'm away. (2004-08-06 18:20 - Bergie)

First impression of Turkey is western, even if minarets rise above the villages. Good roads, credit cards work and insurance is again valid. Money is a bit difficult now. I have 100 million liras burning my pocket. Gas costs about 1.8 million liras per litre. (2004-07-28 13:43 - Bergie)

Trabzon. Checked in to a small hotel near the harbour. Prayer calls are sounding from the minaret speakers of a mosque outside my window. (2004-07-28 16:33 - Bergie)

I'm now sitting in Internet Cafe World next to the Ataturk statue. Taya had uploaded some of my Georgian photos, so they've now been added to the correct journal entry. She'll upload more tomorrow, and I can try to add the rest then. Outside football fans are cheering loudly and exploding fireworks.

I'm feeling quite tired from the Adzharian mountain roads, so tonight I guess I'll turn in early and leave tomorrow for finding a Turkish road map and heading west. (2004-07-28 20:33 - Bergie)

Walk through Trabzon reveals the more eastern nature of the city with bazaars and tea rooms. Kebap booths and shoe polishers are everywhere. (2004-07-28 21:43 - Bergie)

Nobody in Trabzon changes Georgian laris or Ukrainian gryvens, so looks like I'm stuck with them. At least the walk got me a Turkish road map. (2004-07-29 09:47 - Bergie)

Sunny weather. Headed west from Trabzon. Odometer at 61790km. (2004-07-29 10:33 - Bergie)

Giresun. The shore route is under construction and so very slow. I'll fill up, withdraw some cash and then see what the inland roads are like. (2004-07-29 12:23 - Bergie)

Gölgöy. The twisty hill road is not any faster but very scenic and pleasant to ride. Headed to Resadiye and E80 beyond the hills. (2004-07-29 14:43 - Bergie)

Completely covered in dust and tar, and with pitch black face I arrived to a gas station in Resadiye. (2004-07-29 16:55 - Bergie)

Red bull break in Amasya, saw first signs to Istanbul. It is very hot and dusty to ride so I'm looking forward to sunset. (2004-07-29 18:57 - Bergie)

My mobile phone fell from the bike at 110km/h and didn't even turn off. Only the keypad jumped out. Nokia makes them tough these days. (2004-07-29 19:25 - Bergie)

Osmancik. Moon shines on the Turkish sky. I'll try to shorten the 550km to Istanbul as much as possible before turning in. (2004-07-29 20:39 - Bergie)

Tosya, stopping to wash goggles. There are so many mosquitoes that with high beam it looks like it is snowing. (2004-07-29 21:37 - Bergie)

Checked into a trucker motel in Gerede. Tomorrow morning will be 300km of the Ankara-Istanbul highway which runs 10km south of here. (2004-07-30 00:49 - Bergie)

Last gas break in Kaynasli, 200km to Istanbul. Got an early morning start and entered the toll road. (2004-07-30 08:37 - Bergie)

Istanbul, the gateway to Europe. Just crossed Bosborus and found a BMW bike repair shop near the Venetian fortress. Odometer at 62963km. (2004-07-30 11:19 - Bergie)

Booked into hostel Yücelt right next to Hagia Sophia. Looking forward to cold shower and colder beer after melting in the hot traffic jams. (2004-07-30 12:47 - Bergie)

Two hours in Istanbul and I've already arranged bike maintenance, booked accommodation and seen the main sights from outside. Not bad. (2004-07-30 13:23 - Bergie)

Eating some grilled fish bought from a boat on the Golden horn. After climbing the Galata tower I decided it is too hot for sightseeing. (2004-07-30 16:29 - Bergie)

Walking under the domes of Hagia Sophia helped me to cool a bit. And I even saw Halfdan's viking-age rune graffiti on the balcony railing. (2004-07-30 17:35 - Bergie)

Visiting Internet cafe Rivendell to approve the rest of the Georgian photos. Now that part of the trip should be completely online. (2004-07-30 20:14 - Bergie)

Shrimp dinner on the Galata bridge, watching the reflections of Topkapi and Hagia Sophia from the waves. (2004-07-30 23:07 - Bergie)

Last night I smoked water pipe watching lights of ships passing on Bosborus. Now I sit outside on pillows and enjoy breakfast with Turkish tea. (2004-07-31 10:39 - Bergie)

Visited emperor Justian's underground reservoir. The museum of archaelogy was also impressive with Roman sculpture and the Alexander sargophagus (2004-07-31 13:37 - Bergie)

The bike shop, Berke Moto (Bebek Yolu sk 5, Etiler) agreed to change my totally worn front tyre for 155eur and give a used rear tyre as a spare. (2004-07-31 15:27 - Bergie)

Dinner of humus and pasta in Medusa's Head near the Cistern. Now sitting outside in Green corner smoking water pipe and watching backgammon. (2004-07-31 19:33 - Bergie)

Accidentally found the local metal cave - Rock Cafe Caravan in a bazaar side alley between Beyoglu and Taksim square. (2004-07-31 21:43 - Bergie)

Left Caravan when glasses started flying and blood flowing. Beer prices in bars can be anywhere between 1 and 50 euros. (2004-07-31 22:43 - Bergie)

Last night ended in an improvised rooftop jazz bar. Now I'm lying on pillows and enjoying stuffed pancakes and Turkish coffee for breakfast. (2004-08-01 12:07 - Bergie)

There was a fascinating exhibition of medieval arabic science in Topkapi. Steam power, water lifting engines and navigational instruments. (2004-08-01 13:47 - Bergie)

Bazaar being closed hindered shopping opportunities so I went to a 16th century Turkish bath instead. Quite different from back home. (2004-08-01 15:51 - Bergie)

The Blue Mosque bazaar was open, enabling me to do some souvenir shopping. Now enjoying 'cay ve nargile' and the cool air beneath dark clouds. (2004-08-01 18:31 - Bergie)

Left Istanbul and headed west to Bulgarian border on E80 toll road. Switched to a Shell European road atlas for rest of the trip. (2004-08-02 10:46 - Bergie)

Barbaeski. All gas stations on E80 have been closed so I had some interesting moments with empty tank. Managed to limp the bike here and fill up (2004-08-02 12:35 - Bergie)

Gori, 96km to Tbilisi. Nice mountain roads. Every time I stop the bike gathers a huge audience. (2004-07-21 15:53 - Bergie)

Tbilisi, odometer at 60474km. Giving interview to Georgian national television. (2004-07-21 16:45 - Bergie)

After the TV interviews the Camelot MC members escorted me in a convoy to a bike store where the owner presented me riding gloves. (2004-07-21 19:25 - Bergie)

We're having a traditional dinner outside by the river in restaurant Nikala in Old Tbilisi. (2004-07-21 20:45 - Bergie)

Beers on Turtle lake beach. I was invited to a religious night festival with trappist beer on a mountain top monastery during the weekend. (2004-07-21 22:11 - Bergie)

Just for the record, the two TV interviews I gave will be shown tomorrow between 8:30 and 10 in morning programs of Rustavi 2 and Georgia 1. (2004-07-21 23:11 - Bergie)

Both of the interviews looked quite good, especially the riding shots. Everything was dubbed to Georgian so I have no idea what was being said. (2004-07-22 09:15 - Bergie)

It rains in biblical scale, flooding the hilly streets. Tbilisi metro is an experience, as everything is written only in Georgian alphabet. (2004-07-22 10:55 - Bergie)

The Polish backpackers, Ania and Nata managed to get to Tbilisi. We're holding rain in a cafe and comparing sightseeing plans. (2004-07-22 14:19 - Bergie)

The flood has barricaded us to Tbilisi city museum. We're debating whether to wade or stay here. Nice 19th century item collection. (2004-07-22 15:29 - Bergie)

Finally sunshine! Driving with the group to Mtshketa, the ancient capital. All traffic cops in Georgia have been fired because of reforms. (2004-07-22 18:15 - Bergie)

Last night we visited the Djvari 6th century hilltop monastery and had another Georgian dinner on the river. Today we'll go to the countryside. (2004-07-23 10:01 - Bergie)

After a bit of touring in Old Tbilisi we're going to sauna in the old 19th century sulphuric health baths. (2004-07-23 11:57 - Bergie)

After sauna we climbed to the Narikala castle. Now a light lunch and I'll go pack the bike and check out from hotel Victoria. (2004-07-23 14:43 - Bergie)

Visiting the Internet Access and Training Program (IATP) offices where Taya works. Then we'll start the ride to Shilda, a small village in east Georgia. The plan is to spend the weekend there and see some ordinary Georgian life.

We're spending weekend in a mountain village near Kvareli, and there might be no cell phone coverage. Girls are taking turns riding pillion. (2004-07-23 19:11 - Bergie)

The house is in absolutely beautiful place. I'll sleep on balcony under the stars with view to the blue peaks of Caucasus. (2004-07-23 21:15 - Bergie)

The Milky Way and swooping satellites shine above Caucasus as we barbeque sausages filled with goat cheese and taste the local natural wines. (2004-07-23 21:55 - Bergie)

A long, hot climb got me up to the 8th century hilltop monastery of Nekresi. Tried enduroing up but the street tyres kept slipping. (2004-07-24 12:03 - Bergie)

Picnic lunch of bread, cheese and churchkhelas at a mountain spring. On the other side of the Caucasus ridge, few kilometers away is Dagestan. (2004-07-24 13:41 - Bergie)

We're exploring the 15th century Gremi palace on the old Asia-Europe trade route. In the process we've scared quite a few bats. (2004-07-24 15:57 - Bergie)

As night settles on Caucasus we again marvel the Georgian hospitality while preparing shashlik. Ania and Nata are learning how to milk cows. (2004-07-24 20:29 - Bergie)

We were taken to the neighbor's wine cellar where they produce it with traditional methods. White wine was really good with some fresh cheese. (2004-07-25 10:01 - Bergie)

On a hill walk with the villagers we were shown the memorial spring of poet Vazha Pshavela and the old smugglers' mountain route from Dagestan. (2004-07-25 13:29 - Bergie)

Taya's father, Valeri fixed the hanging rear right indicator and we're thinking of how to enforce and fix the license plate that's shaking apart (2004-07-25 15:27 - Bergie)

The villagers gave us several bottles of local wine and chacha, the Georgian moonshine as farewell gifts. I also got a book about the region. (2004-07-25 17:17 - Bergie)

The ride to Tbilisi was first scenic with setting sun drawing silhuettes of mountains and castles, and then a dark, wet and potholed nightmare. (2004-07-25 21:33 - Bergie)

We're now meeting seven Polish bikers on their way to Armenia together with Camelot MC. Table is filled with vodka shots and I have to ride back (2004-07-25 21:35 - Bergie)

Today we're headed to Kazbeki on the old Georgian military highway carved to the mountains. I'm on the bike and girls will take a marshrutka. (2004-07-26 07:51 - Bergie)

Castle Ananuri. I'm taking photos while girls discuss who gets to ride pillion next. Very beautiful, twisty mountain road. (2004-07-26 09:33 - Bergie)

Kazbeki, odometer at 61036km. The mountain scenery was awesome but the road terrible. Lost my rear brake for a while in the bumps. (2004-07-26 11:49 - Bergie)

We're having a light lunch on the hillside before trying to proceed to the Sameba church on the top. Thunderstorm is coming. (2004-07-26 14:15 - Bergie)

Flooded path and heavy hail forced us to turn back just before the summit. Now we're treading between the streams back down to the village. (2004-07-26 14:49 - Bergie)

The mountain road back had collapsed in rain and I got stuck. A friendly driver helped me to push the bike out in knee-deep mud. (2004-07-26 18:21 - Bergie)

There were problems with the driver the girls had hired. He kept trying to get extra money out of everything and drove away when I got stuck. (2004-07-26 19:37 - Bergie)

Now back in Tbilisi. The stoyanka keeper wasn't satisfied until I shared my story and his vodka. Now we're preparing for a farewell dinner. (2004-07-26 19:43 - Bergie)

Farewell dinner in Valeri's home with long Georgian toasts, including one for the people waiting at home. (2004-07-26 23:15 - Bergie)

Last night's party got quite rowdy and emotional. Now we'll go to Taya's office to upload pictures and then I'll start heading west. (2004-07-27 08:37 - Bergie)

Cured hangover at lunch with Nata, Taya and Guram, and riding out from Tbilisi. It is late so I will miss the cave city this time. (2004-07-27 15:47 - Bergie)

Khasuri, 130km from Tbilisi. Turned southwest to M8 to Batumi. Stopping to apply sun lotion. (2004-07-27 17:17 - Bergie)

Gas break in Akhaltsikhe in shadow of a castle. Turkish border 10km away is closed for the night so on to Batumi and the setting sun. (2004-07-27 18:45 - Bergie)

In Adzharia the 'red' road turned from bad to terrible gravel with no signs. Treading on at 20km/h without rear brake. (2004-07-27 19:43 - Bergie)

Too dark and dangerous to ride so I'm staying in guest room of a tea house in Goderdzi Pass (2025m). Very scenic. (2004-07-27 20:51 - Bergie)

Had a dinner and lots of conversation in broken Russian with the tea house people. Now going to sleep with bike hopefully staying on the porch. (2004-07-27 22:31 - Bergie)

The morning has painted the mountains very beautiful. I pack the bike, pay the innkeeper and start descending. Uaz jeep can get to Batumi in 3h. (2004-07-28 07:03 - Bergie)

After 80km of traktor trails since leaving Akhaltsikhe the road is starting to improve as it winds downwards. And the rear brake has returned. (2004-07-28 08:37 - Bergie)

Batumi. Trying to get some photos printed before heading to Turkish border. (2004-07-28 10:25 - Bergie)

Crossed river Bug. My map has ukrainian place names translitterated to russian. For example, Mikolajv is show as Nikolaev. (2004-07-16 12:18 - Bergie)

Herson. Some chocolate and suhariki on the shore of Dnipro and I'm ready to continue. Passed some italian bikers on the way. (2004-07-16 13:12 - Bergie)

Krasnoperekopsk, Republic of Crimea. There was a special road tax of 10 gryven. Also, saw first road signs to Georgia. (2004-07-16 15:14 - Bergie)

Sevastopol. The endless golden fields of Ukraine gave way to rolling hills and wineyards. Last 50km has been sun and pleasant twisties. (2004-07-16 18:42 - Bergie)

I'm booked to nice, recently renovated hotel Sevastopol on Bolshaya Morskaya. Now touring the piers, trying to find an ok restaurant. (2004-07-16 20:10 - Bergie)

Last pictures of the huge Sevastopol WW2 monument, then heading over the hills to Jalta. Looks like this will be a hot day. (2004-07-17 10:49 - Bergie)

Ice cream break on a view point on the hills. The road is splendid but filled with traffic cops. Again had to pay a 17 gryven bribe for passing. (2004-07-17 11:56 - Bergie)

Jalta. Found Chekhov's home museum after little adventuring on the narrow winding streets. (2004-07-17 13:08 - Bergie)

Too hot to stay in one place. Started engine and headed to Alushta or Feodosija. Odometer at 59378km in Jalta. (2004-07-17 13:38 - Bergie)

Solnechgorsk. The swim in the Black Sea was refreshing. Now I have to dry off for a moment and then continue to Feodosia. (2004-07-17 15:20 - Bergie)

Port Krim outside Kerch. The police at the checkpoint is taking forever with my driver's license to decide whether to let me to the port. (2004-07-17 19:42 - Bergie)

After making a huge fuss about not having russian language bike papers for almost 40 minutes, it all boiled down to 50 uag bribe. Waiting ferry. (2004-07-17 20:22 - Bergie)

Amazing coincidence: Viking ship captain Koivusalo is now in Tbilisi, Georgia with a boat. I'll have to see if I could arrange a meeting. He is sailing on the Vittfarne expedition. (2004-07-17 20:44 - Bergie)

Switching from my Shell Russian atlas to a Freytag & Berndt road map of Caucasus since I'll be crossing the Kerch channel to the region. (2004-07-17 21:42 - Bergie)

The whole border hassle took four hours. Now in Russia, getting to see how the bike runs on 92 grade fuel and seeking a hotel. (2004-07-18 01:25 - Bergie)

Novorossijsk on the foothills of Caucasus mountains. This is the southeast corner of the European subcontinent. (2004-07-18 10:25 - Bergie)

Sochi. Tomorrow morning I have to find the harbour commercial officer to ask about shipping the bike to Poti, Georgia. (2004-07-18 23:27 - Bergie)

Today's ride was also pure joy on the sunny, winding roads of the forested Caucasian foothills. And to top that, the hotel Moskva has a sauna for 250 rubles. (2004-07-18 23:29 - Bergie)

After some queuing and lots of stamps and translation help from two Carelians, I have tickets for M. Svetlov to Poti for tomorrow afternoon. (2004-07-19 10:55 - Bergie)

Here's how shipping a motorcycle from Sochi to Poti happens:

• Visit the port commercial office (Kommercheskij obdel) and tell them you want to ship a motorcycle to Poti ("motorzikl na Poti")
• They will want to see your vehicle papers (the ones given by Russian customs at the border)
• They'll give you a document about exporting the bike which needs to be taken to the harbour police (militsiya)
• The police will examine the vehicle papers and your passport and stamp the document
• Take the document back to the commercial office and they will calculate the shipping costs
• Pay the shipping at the office's cashier (kassa). For me the price was 100 USD
• Take the payment receipt to the commercial office and they will give you the stamped shipping document
• Buy regular passenger ticket to the ferry from ticket counter 3 (kassa n3). This costs about 44 USD, and requires passport and Georgian visa (I passed this by explaining that I'll get it from the border)
• If the queue is so long that getting tickets to the same ferry seems impossible, appeal to the other passengers and explain that you must be on the same ferry as the bike, and they'll let you pass
• Fill the regular customs declaration papers, including your motorcycle information
• Arrive to the harbour at least hour before the ferry departs

The ship should arrive to Poti early on the wednesday morning. Then the next hassle will be getting the Georgian visa. Both Finnish foreign ministry and Georgia's government have stated that visa can be bought from the border, but the shipping agency hadn't heard of that.

I'm taking the ferry instead of riding to Georgia to avoid the trouble-ridden region of Abkhazia. Rest of Georgia should be quite safe for traveling. Horizons Unlimited has some notes on the subject.

I was contacted via SMS by the Georgian biker club Camelot MC. Would be very interesting to meet local motorcyclists.

Visit to Internet Club Noosfera allowed me to upload most photos from the Ukrainian part of the trip. Very fast connection and no upload limits, so the whole matter could be handled with 130 rubles.

Sushi dinner in Sakura on ul. Vorovskogo. Impressive menu. Then to Kino Sputnik to watch the Russian vampire action flick Nochnoj dozor. (2004-07-19 19:23 - Bergie)

The bike's tank is filled and postcards sent so I'm ready for the ferry. Some guy paid my gas when he heard where I'm going. (2004-07-20 13:05 - Bergie)

In these touristic places it would be possible to finance the trip by allowing people to pose with the bike. A Harley guy charged 150rub/photo. (2004-07-20 13:27 - Bergie)

Two Polish backpackers told me that the Abhazian border is closed to all but locals and UN peacekeepers. So ferry is now the only way to Georgia (2004-07-20 16:37 - Bergie)

After five hours of hassle the bike is on board M. Svetlov and we can cast off. We should arrive to Poti, Georgia in nine hours. (2004-07-20 20:09 - Bergie)

Setting sun has painted the Caucasian hills into purple colors. We watch the distancing lights of Sochi as the ship rolls gently onwards. (2004-07-20 20:31 - Bergie)

Port of Poti, waiting to disembark. After little sleep on a gangplank and quite many vodka toasts not really a riding feeling. (2004-07-21 06:33 - Bergie)

Waiting for fourth hour now, with no end in sight. Just had to bribe the Poti customs with 20 usd or they would've forced me to sail to Batumi. (2004-07-21 10:23 - Bergie)

After over six hours of waiting and some bribes I'm finally on Georgian soil with some laris in my pocket. (2004-07-21 12:07 - Bergie)

Lunch break of bortsch and shashlik in Krolevets. 260km to Kiev. Roads are quite bad but empty. The bike attracts quite an audience. (2004-07-12 15:02 - Bergie)

Ice cream break near Kozelets. Still about 80km to Kiev. Got stopped by police who were curious about where I was coming from. (2004-07-12 17:42 - Bergie)

Not fair! An Estonian biker passed me 160km/h and I got the speeding ticket. 80 local units, enough to buy both of the cops a dinner. (2004-07-12 18:08 - Bergie)

The whole day has been sunny and warm, but Kiev is covered by a thunder cloud. Stopping in Brovary to put on a scarf before the rain hits. (2004-07-12 18:24 - Bergie)

I've now seen the golden spires and the huge warrior-like "Motherland" statue of Kiev. But I've yet to find something resembling a city center, or even a hotel. (2004-07-12 18:56 - Bergie)

As soon as I had written that a local biker stopped for a chat and pointed me to the right direction. I'm now booked into Gotel Ukraina. (2004-07-12 19:30 - Bergie)

The hotel is expensive (300 gryven = 50 eur), but nice and right in the center behind the golden angel statue. And it has sauna and stoyanka. (2004-07-12 19:32 - Bergie)

Kiev (or Kyiv) is one of those great European cities that I had only vague knowledge of, except for few photos of military parades. (2004-07-12 21:26 - Bergie)

Some recon work found a much cheaper hotel for tomorrow. Sankt Petersburg on vulitsya Volodimirska is only 90 gryven per night for double room. (2004-07-12 23:24 - Bergie)

Digital Ixus 500 was about 60 eur cheaper in here than in Finland, so now I have a new camera. The old one was quite battered anyway. (2004-07-13 10:36 - Bergie)

I like the way Kiev is built on many levels to the hills. Just took a cable car ride to Dniepr shore and am thinking of taking a river cruise. (2004-07-13 12:08 - Bergie)

Cruise on Nikolaj Ostrovskij showed Dniepr, the golden spires of Kyiv and the 65m high statue of Motherland wonderfully. (2004-07-13 13:36 - Bergie)

I just visited the underground necropolis of Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavra monastery where over 100 orthodox saints are preserved in glass coffins. (2004-07-13 15:22 - Bergie)

After the monastery tour it was time to take metro back to main street. Lunch outside in nice indian restaurant Himalaya. (2004-07-13 17:06 - Bergie)

The feeling of having eaten way too much chicken vindaloo is slowly melting away while sitting at beer on terrace on Andriivskyi Uzviz street. (2004-07-13 19:18 - Bergie)

Now in the post office's Internet cafe on the Independence plaza. My mailbox has over 5000 unread messages so I guess I won't even try sorting them before I'm back in Finland and can use a spam filter. If anyone wants to communicate with me SMS is much better solution.

Juha called twenty minutes ago with some reconnaisance information about the situation in Georgia. Looks like there is some big military operation going on in South Ossetia, so that area should be avoided. On the other hand, there are now some UN peacekeepers in Abkhazia, so that might be better. I will have to see what the situation looks like in Sochi. If there is regular traffic to Tbilisi from there I'll accompany some other drivers. If not, I'll just take a ship to Poti. In any case the plan is to stay out of trouble. My travel insurance won't be valid in Georgia because the insurance company considers it war zone, so I have to buy special "War insurance" for the trip.

This Internet cafe doesn't allow me to upload photos so I'll have to find another one that does. I've already taken about 200 pictures. Mostly from Saint Petersburg, but also from the road and Kyiv.

Another Internet cafe 30 meters further allowed me to upload first of the photos.

No luck with sauna today either. Reserved. Prostitutes in hotel Ukraina lobby yesterday hinted at it being used for other purposes than bathing. (2004-07-13 22:16 - Bergie)

Time for last beers in Kyiv. Have to turn in early tonight as tomorrow is the long ride to Black Sea. Bought a Finnish flag for the bike. (2004-07-13 22:26 - Bergie)

Grey morning in Kyiv and the forecast for Odessa promises rain, rain, rain. But doesn't help, must press on. (2004-07-14 11:06 - Bergie)

The rain started when riding out of Kyiv. Now it is teletubby time. My right rear indicator had gotten loose, had to fix it with duct tape. (2004-07-14 11:34 - Bergie)

Coffee and blini break. Feeling cold as my shirt and socks are all wet. 260 km left to Odessa. (2004-07-14 14:36 - Bergie)

Rainy Odessa. After five riding days I'm finally on the shore of the Black Sea. Odometer reads 58706km. Lots of beggars here. (2004-07-14 19:02 - Bergie)

Booked into hotel Passaszh for 100 gryven. I might stay here for second night to dry my gear and see more of the "Pearl of the Black Sea". (2004-07-14 20:06 - Bergie)

I found a nice restaurant, 'Steikhaus' (www.steak.od.ua). Interesting fusion menu. Just enjoyed a whiskey marinated steak with tabasco ice cream (2004-07-14 22:16 - Bergie)

The hotel guard came to wake me up. Apparently a street cleaner had pushed the bike, trickering the brake disc lock alarm. I had to dismantle it (2004-07-15 07:02 - Bergie)

Breakfast of eggs and mushrooms on vulitsya Deribasivska. Finally got started on Tolstoy's Hadji Murad, the story of a Chechen warrior. Rain. (2004-07-15 11:46 - Bergie)

Visited the city archaelogical museum and walked the great stairs of Odessa to the harbour. Here would be first ferry opportunities to Georgia. (2004-07-15 15:48 - Bergie)

Odessa is a weird city - only one person in twenty knows where a post office is, and even fewer how to fing stoyanka. Hotel quit their's tonight (2004-07-15 19:40 - Bergie)

After dinner bakhlava, tea and water pipe to accompany Hadji Murad in the Uzbek restaurant Shalimar on Grepeskaya ulitsa. Very good mutton. (2004-07-15 21:06 - Bergie)

Cigar and some rum in the Fidel club, then it is time to return to the hotel. Tomorrow is the long ride to Crimea. Weather forecast looks ok. (2004-07-15 22:46 - Bergie)

Departure. Shared farewell kvas with Kerttu on Palace bridge, and now headed to Kupchino to return keys. Then on towards Moscow on M10. (2004-07-10 13:23 - Bergie)

First gas stop about 40km from St. Petersburg. Slight drizzle but sky looks clear ahead. Odometer says 56615km. (2004-07-10 14:44 - Bergie)

Slightly past Veliky Novgorod. Some of the potholes are big enough to eat a motorcycle. (2004-07-10 17:00 - Bergie)

Tver on river Volga. Hotel Tsentralnaya is familiar from last summer's trip. Next task is to find a stoyanka, then food and a pivo. (2004-07-10 21:00 - Bergie)

It does give slight bad horror movie flashbacks when the room behind a long dark corridor has a faucet that spurts out red liquid and no light (2004-07-10 21:30 - Bergie)

After some shashlik and pivo on the riverbank and journal writing it is time to call it a day. Tomorrow is a long ride ahead. (2004-07-10 23:12 - Bergie)

Morning blinis and coffee in Tver's Olimp shopping center while some photos are printed. Looks like I'll skip Moscow to get to Black Sea faster. (2004-07-11 10:32 - Bergie)

No working ATMs in whole Tver so I'll just start the engines. From now on everything will be unknown territory. (2004-07-11 11:12 - Bergie)

The stoyanka guys had played me the trick of emptying my tank. Oh well, gas is cheap here. I really need a lockable gas cap. (2004-07-11 11:50 - Bergie)

I just crossed a railway intersection closed for repairs motocross style near M1. Drivers of stuck cars cheered me on. :-) (2004-07-11 14:48 - Bergie)

Olitsvino. Headed south on Moscow ring road in quite bad traffic. Crossed river Moskva and saw signs to Kiev and Astrakhan. Difficult choise? (2004-07-11 14:50 - Bergie)

My Digital Ixus has seen too much dust and potholes, and decided to die. I have to dismantle it. In meanwhile, I'll try to get a film camera. (2004-07-11 14:52 - Bergie)

Pelmeni break in Detchino. Headed southwest on M3 with some rain clouds ahead. Still 240 km to Bryansk. (2004-07-11 16:18 - Bergie)

Passing a truck in front of a militsia checkpoint set me back with 300rub. Now I'm out of rubles. Hopefully Bryansk has an ATM. (2004-07-11 18:08 - Bergie)

Bryansk. Finding a bankomat was easy. Next is the familiar drill of seeking accomodation, stoyanka and food. Today's ride was about 560km (2004-07-11 19:52 - Bergie)

Found a nice room from hotel Desna. What worries me though is that the bike will be guarded only by statue of Lenin and two locks. No stoyankas. (2004-07-11 21:00 - Bergie)

This morning there was a cute grey kitten sleeping under my bike. Visit to post office and it is time to go. About 200km to the Ukrainian border (2004-07-12 10:36 - Bergie)

Not only I have to watch out for crazy trucks and check points, but also for herds of geese on the road. Very beautiful green scenery, though. (2004-07-12 12:30 - Bergie)

We're sitting in sushi bar of west harbour's old market hall. The bike misfired a bit and I hope the wet ignition problem hasn't returned. (2004-07-03 12:15 - Bergie)

First break near Koskenkylä. We've ridden on the highway instead of the old King's road because of heavy rain. (2004-07-03 14:01 - Bergie)

Quite a long queue on the Russian border. The guards told us to lane split much of it but this still takes time. Grey skies, no rain. (2004-07-03 16:03 - Bergie)

Finally, land of the free and the home of the brave. First taste of a Russian cigarette. Traffic insurance cost 32eur for the whole month. (2004-07-03 17:03 - Bergie)

Shashlik break in Tervaniemi yacht club with view to Vyborg castle. Grey weather continues but it feels good to be in Russia. (2004-07-03 18:15 - Bergie)

We just arrived to St Petersburg in evening sunshine, and are waiting for Jose and the girls on Ploshad Vosstanya. (2004-07-03 21:17 - Bergie)

The bike should be secure on a stoyanka on Ploshad vosstanya. We'll drop our gear to Veronica's on Five cornes and head for beer in Pivnaya. (2004-07-03 21:49 - Bergie)

Sibirskaya Korona beer, some suhariki and good company in Pivnaya -- feels like we never left after new year. Skoll isn't here, though. (2004-07-03 23:41 - Bergie)

Finally some rest! Now in Vsevolojsk. The morning will be early as we need to fetch the bike and see a water jet race on Neva. Spokojnoj nochi! (2004-07-04 03:21 - Bergie)

We didn't quite end up to Hermitage at noon, but the Georgian-style breakfast at Svetlana's place is excellent. (2004-07-04 11:35 - Bergie)

The bike was still secure but leaking oil in the stoyanka so we bought another 24 hours of guarding for 300 rub. Now we continue to Vitebskij. (2004-07-04 14:03 - Bergie)

After a hot train trip and long walk we enjoy the shade of trees in the park of Pushkin palace. Beautiful use of blue in the architecture. (2004-07-04 16:01 - Bergie)

First pivo of the day on a shore terrace of the palace lake. The garlic suhariki are really good and we have some dried squid. (2004-07-04 17:31 - Bergie)

Back in St. Pete and meeting Kerttu's friend Anna. Today's dinner will be in the arabic-styled japanese restaurant Magrib on Nevski (2004-07-04 20:47 - Bergie)

We spent last night on bar terrace listening to shouts of football fans, and are again in Svetlana's place. Still no warm water, though. (2004-07-05 09:21 - Bergie)

Breakfast champagne in Dom Aktyora, ne ploho! The girls are also finally up. Somebody plays the grand piano in the dance hall. (2004-07-05 13:15 - Bergie)

The Russian Museum was closed so we went for coffee and chocolate in Kafe Abrikosov on Gostinyi dvor instead. The others have pivo in Kupchino. (2004-07-05 15:51 - Bergie)

Difficulty of getting the group together reaches new hights - after another stint in Dom Aktyora we're now in Pivnaya waiting to get to Fireball (2004-07-05 21:01 - Bergie)

Morning pelmeni in Vsevolosk. They're probably fattening us to be eaten, these Ukrainians. ;-) Finally warm water so shower's next. (2004-07-06 12:35 - Bergie)

With promises to return we took the marshrut taxi from Sveta's place. Jose, Matilda and Annika leave today so we're in a bit of hurry. (2004-07-06 15:01 - Bergie)

Farewell dinner in Tres Amigos near five corners. Nachos, Mexican drinks and Cuban cigars. No weeping like when Jose left in new year. ;-) (2004-07-06 17:29 - Bergie)

In midst of cigars and merriment we noticed that Skoll is well remembered even if absent. There is the Skoll Position of being tired for example (2004-07-06 20:03 - Bergie)

Scared by the Ice Cream ManTM, the little girl and others drive away. All hotels are full so we stay at Veronica's in Five corners. (2004-07-06 21:53 - Bergie)

Expiration of visa by one hour means trouble at border as Jose and the girls found out. Luckily their cab driver arranged them over the border. (2004-07-07 12:25 - Bergie)

Since all hotels are full we have to register at the travel agency (Paspartu, Bolshoi prospekt 29a211). 20eur / person - outrageously expensive. (2004-07-07 18:39 - Bergie)

Not only was it expensive but the registration also takes two days to get migration cards back. Now we eat lunch in pseudo-medieval restaurant. (2004-07-07 18:39 - Bergie)

Some vodka with Anna and Ivan in Propaganda bar on Fontanki. The bike is still secure on Vosstanya. (2004-07-08 19:56 - Bergie)

After brief visit to a sushi bar on Nevsky we watched an old Bollywood movie dubbed to Russian. (2004-07-08 19:56 - Bergie)

Today's motorcycle ride brought us to sunny Petergof, the tsar's summer palace. (2004-07-08 19:56 - Bergie)

Dinner in Georgian restaurant Ket on Karavannaya ulitsa with Kerttu, Svetlana and Anna. Bad traffic on way from Petergof. (2004-07-08 19:56 - Bergie)

Ivan joined us and we continued to restaurant Parnas on Malyi Sadovaya for some champagne. Maybe later a Russian fantasy movie. (2004-07-08 20:39 - Bergie)

I saw something that looked like an anti imported beer demonstration on Nevsky prospekt. "Carlsberg go home." (2004-07-08 21:09 - Bergie)

Last day in St. Petersburg. We finally got the registration papers from Paspartu and are headed to the Zoological museum with Svetlana. (2004-07-09 14:09 - Bergie)

The zoological is closed on fridays so we went to Kunstkamera, Peter the Great's etnographical museum instead. (2004-07-09 15:29 - Bergie)

After Korean dinner of bi bim bap in Seoul Garden on Griboyedov we're sitting at an ice cream bar. Farewell party will be in Magrib. (2004-07-09 19:53 - Bergie)

My farewell and Guillaume's welcome champagne in Magrib. Looks like habit of 'Skolling' spreads rapidly in Russia. (2004-07-10 00:51 - Bergie)

Today I've been busy getting some tools and other gear in order, and fixing Jose's Royal Enfield. Tomorrow I will fetch my visas from Lähialuematkat, and start packing.

If everything goes well, the trip will start on Saturday morning when we ride to St. Petersburg.

I've looked at the packing list from last summer's Russian motorcycle tour, and there will be some modifications:

• This time I will not carry a PDA as I can write journal entries via SMS
• There will be more tools as I'm traveling alone
• I will bring some maps and dictionaries to make the trip easier
• As my GPS is dead I will use a tank-mounted map bag for navigation
• I'm still torn on whether to bring camping equipment or not. Last year they were practically unused as accommodation is cheap in Russia

I will post the full packing list when I have the gear sorted out.

The SMS journal writing system should be rigged now. Expect frequent updates once the trip has begun. Now it is tandoori time :-) (2004-06-30 22:39 - Bergie)

The trip is really shaping up. Russian and Ukrainian visas are in my pocket and we are planning with the group coming to St Petersburg in Ateljè (2004-07-01 21:37 - Bergie)

Last morning before the trip and still 15 open todo items, including insurance paperwork and some sushi. Next up is a company staff meeting... (2004-07-02 09:07 - Bergie)

Most work duties and insurance details are OK now, and Jose's bike parked near an inspection station. Cold beer and sunshine, then back to work. (2004-07-02 17:13 - Bergie)

Now the huge todo list of pre-trip stuff has been finished and I can rest. Looks like it will rain tomorrow but that is the norm for bike tours. (2004-07-02 21:51 - Bergie)

As per Kerttu's request, I made a guestimated travel route. This would go in the following fashion:

Helsinki, St. Petersburg (~3.7.-10.7.), Veliky Novgorod, Moscow, Kiev, Odessa (~17.7.), Sevastopol, Novorossijsk, Batumi, Trabzon, Istanbul (~25.7.), Sofia, Belgrad, Zagreb, Trieste, Milano, Zürich (~4.8.)

There are also many other fascinating places on the road, though. Will be interesting to see how well this estimate holds up.

Now the bags are packed and I'm ready. I only need to suit up and wake up Kerttu, and we should be able to start the trip with a sushi lunch. (2004-07-03 10:11 - Bergie)